Sustainable Food? Great, But at What Cost?

Mention a local and sustainable food program to mosteconomize labor. If staffing levels were designed to
chefs and food service operators and you might seeproduce a menu loaded with lots of options, then a
a glazed look in their eyes. Or worse yet, they'll startreduction of those choices and a focus on the quality
to shake, stutter and break out in a cold sweat,not quantity of ingredients will allow balancing the
mumbling something about "costing too much", asworkload.
they look for any way out of the conversation. InBut be aware of the staff's skill levels. For too long,
my own experiences converting conventional foodmany so called "cooks" have become complacent in
programs into more sustainable models, I've not onlytheir particular art. Those who had culinary skills in the
experienced these anxious symptoms myself - I'vefirst place, may have forgotten or misplaced them
found a tonic to help cure them.with the advent of highly processed foods. In
Definitionaddition, over the last several decades there has
Sustainable food promotes environmental, economic,been an influx of lesser skilled labor in the food
social and nutritional well being. However in terms ofservice industry - it doesn't require a lot of talent to
exact models of a sustainable food program,open up boxes and cans and work an assembly line
whether in a school system, hospital, restaurant orkitchen. Teaching staff to properly handle all this new
university there are no two that are, nor should be,and wonderful food is critical. What good is an
alike. Locale; fiscal and physical limitations; staff sizeinvestment in better food, if the customer gets
and skill level; are just a few of the factors thatserved poorly prepared and presented food?
make this type of program hard to duplicate.Investment in restructuring and training of staff
However, when it comes to dollars and cents, everycannot be overlooked, less the ultimate result will end
establishment shares the same commonin a lot of wasted of time and money.
denominators - food, labor, and other expenses. It'sOther Costs
these realities that will ultimately be affected - up orOther costs like infrastructure, equipment, marketing
down, and can ensure a program's success.and consultative resources must be considered when
The Real Cost of Foodaddressing a more sustainable food program. But just
The difference of purchasing sustainably producedas in food and labor costs, these need not break the
food compared to that of conventional food is likelybank either. By systematically reviewing the entire
going to be higher. And it should be! For too longfood chain, from purchasing, through service, one will
we've been paying a hidden cost for "cheap food"realize opportunities as well as limitations, ultimately
and that cost is starting to rear its ugly head in untoldcreating a menu that uses ingredients that will fit
environmental, health and small business tragedies.your business model.
Small to midsized farmers and producers deserve aAnd don't go it alone! Would a brain surgeon start his
fair price for their toils and we need to give it topractice without an education? Would you hire a chef
them. The good news is that there is a way tothat has no experience in the kitchen? Then why
lessen the impact on our bottom line and supportattempt a sustainable food program without tapping
these artisans at the same time.into the best resources? Look for organizations well
Many get confused about how much more this willconnected in the agricultural field. Utilize the many
cost. Let's set some facts straight - The cost ofFarm-to Chef and Farm-to-School programs that
food generally averages about one third of our totalexist on a statewide and national level. Hire a
expenses, therefore any change to buying moreresource to help get it right. One thing I hear most
sustainable foods will in reality only impact a portionoften as I go around the food service world, is "Oh,
of our total budget. This, compounded by fact thatwe know how to do that ourselves. We don't need
there is little chance one will replace every singleany help" Well if that's the case, why are there are
ingredient with a sustainable counterpart, means thatso few truly sustainable food programs out there?
changes in food costs will be no more than aUltimately, a sustainable food program might cost a
percentage of the percentage of your totalbit more, but it will realize peripheral savings as well.
operating costs.I've seen kitchens eliminate disposable tableware and
The food service industry has created its ownimplement composting programs; then go on to save
monster. For years we've been reacting to customermoney on trash removal and supply costs. I've
dissatisfaction by offering quantity rather than quality.witnessed increased employee health and morale due
We add more options, increase the size of the menu,to new ways of working and living, not to mention
the size of the food court, the size of everything -the increase in sales due to the public demand for
including portions! Well guess what? Customers arethis.
often still unhappy. What's needed is to place moreOn the one hand, engaging in the process of
focus on fewer choices. And the results that can beprioritizing sustainability is not an easy undertaking. On
expected? Less waste, more attention to detail,the other, any conventional food service program
more resources for higher quality product.fortunate enough to be led by individuals who have
Labor Coststhe courage and willingness to invest in
Just like food, labor expenses and the staffing levelsknowledgeable resources, training and dedicated
required to produce sustainable food will fluctuateeffort, will reap the abundant benefits of this new
with the extent of the program. Fresh, whole foodsfood movement. So wipe that sweaty brow, stop
require more "hand work" than processed food does.mumbling about costs and stand up to this
However what many don't stop to realize is thatopportunity. There will ultimately be a very large
with some strategic menu planning, you canreturn for everyone, on such a modest investment.